A Toast to Well Done and Spectacular

   
     These recent photos are evidence of what we've been waiting for.
   Frequent readers of this space will recall my devout love for Big Sur. It is the part of California that hooked us and tickled our imagination for years. Eventually time and life conspired and led us to make a retirement move from Indianapolis to a place where we knew no one. We knew we loved the California central coast.

    Until 18 months ago we came and went freely on the spectacular Pacific Coast Highway to the legendary Big Sur.
     Highway 1 is our primary road, but about 25 minutes north the road was closed by the largest landslide in California history.
     The frame below was shot on May 22, 2017 by John Madonna.

Photo by John Madonna for Cal Trans

  That is some 6 million cubic yards of slide material. As you can see it buried Highway 1 under 40 foot of debris and created a new peninsula on the rugged coast line.

   It took heroic effort by Cal Trans engineers and workers and the John Madonna construction company to re open the iconic highway. It was a $54 million project. An average of 20 workers began each morning at 5AM and many of them worked 100 days before taking a day off. It was hard and dangerous work and the land continued to slide.

   In the before and after composite published by the San Luis Obispo Tribune you can see the historic change.

May 2017

July 2018

JuxtaposeJS

Photo Credits: Before John Madonna After CalTrans

     While those of us who lived 30 to 40 minutes south were denied access to our beloved Big Sur and were forced to take the 101 to Carmel or Monterey, those who lived there were devastated. 

     Work, school, commerce, and the commutes were shattered. To go anywhere required hours long journeys via arduous and dangerous mountain roads.

    But traffic flows again.

   The two frames immediately above show the Mud Creek area and the new stretch of road just opened.  For a sensational short drone video link here to see Joe Johnson's masterful work.

   I've been fortunate to drive many of the world's spectacular mountain, wilderness and coastal roads. Highway 1 from our Cambria home to Big Sur excites and gives me joy as much as any. As my friend Jim, who introduced Big Sur to us all those years ago says "It never disappoints!"

   Being back in the magic area was a good cause for a lunch and toast to our love of Big Sur and a "well done" to John Madonna Construction and Cal Trans workers.

         See you down the trail. And I hope that means that sometime in your life you'll drive Highway 1 through Big Sur.

    

CALMING THE UNSETTLED

      It seems everyone is fatigued by the crisis a moment energy that emanates from Trumps Washington. During the foreign trip a few observers noted it almost seemed normal. Almost. There were those little quirks; Melania flipping away the donald's hand, his shoving a NATO minister out of the way to mug for the camera, the Pope's message about climate change, insulting comments about Germans-but they were oh so mild compared to the norm.
      The relative normalcy of the trip gets blown away like jet blasts from Air Force One when the trump show returns to DC. 
       The Russian intrigue did not disappear. Now son in law Kushner is under investigatory focus and there remains the president's acknowledgment he tried to obstruct an investigation. It is incredible, fast, furious, unprecedented but it is destructive not only to our tradition and pending history  but also to our mental health. It is as though an amphetamine and psychotropic have been mixed and put into our food supply. We are racing full blast through a house of torture. And we remember, kids are watching. Impressions are being made. The trump legacy is already toxic.

when will it stop?

 Photo by Joe Johnston The Tribune-San Luis Obispo 

   This is the newest problem on the legendary Pacific Coast Highway and no one knows how to fix it. The Mud Creek slide has changed the Pacific coast line as mountain continues to slide into the ocean, obliterating the highway. This is less than an hour north of our home and a reason we, like many others, have been denied access to some of our favorite hiking trails and spots in the Big Sur area.  

    This week more than a million tons of mountain slid over the road. There are 4 slide areas in a quarter mile and we are told springs also feed the motion. It is perplexing. We wait for it to stop.

prevailing

     Mark Wellman's photo from the Yosemite Conservancy has special appeal right now. The timeless beauty and power of the Sierra, the remarkable interaction of human and mountain, and the spirit of adventure and achievement are a tonic for those malady's and unsettling troubles of our day.

I find great peace in the Sierras, an abiding tranquility and perspective on the transitory nature of human endeavor and foibles. 

     

    In time trump will be gone, the body politic may scar but it will heal, that majestic Pacific Coast Highway will be re-engineered, re-imagined, and the mountains and the sea will survive long beyond our generations. The mountains will be steadfast and the pacific will continue to sing the song of this planet. Comfort in these thoughts and the boundless arc of the star nations helps me put the present human mania in focus. Indeed we are like mists in time, vapors. But we dream and hope. 

    See you down the trail.  

   

How are you doing out there? A little smokey? UPDATE

rare

     We don't see much of this after winter and spring-green.

A network of springs under lace Cambria and this property not far from the east Village bears witness. The hills in the distance provide the dry counterpoint. 

thanks for the concern

    Friends back east write or call and ask how we are doing in this fire season. Two of California's wild fires have created air quality issues and some ash, but we are fortunate.
    Those "clouds" you see in the center of the picture are smoke from the Chimney Fire burning south of Lake Nacimiento. The map below provides a setting and relationship to Cambria, on the coast.

    The peak is Rocky Butte, some 3,200 feet.  Friends who live near the summit have a commanding view toward the ocean and back toward Lake Nacimiento, though now they are often inundated with smoke.

    **New Statistics--11PM PT  8/18
   The Chimney Fire has burned more than 11,000 acres and destroyed 45 homes in six days. 2,459firefighters are on the scene along with 170 engines, 7 air tankers, 13 helicopters, 28 dozers, 34 water tenders and 71crews. It is less than 35% contained.
   In the scene below you see dark and white smoke. Generally the darker smoke indicates a hotter burn producing more carbon.

      Fire season is the negative of living in rural or small town California.  

     Tourists do not always appreciate the frequent summer fog that rolls in during the evening and hangs around until mid-day, but locals love and depend on it. We call it May Gray, June Gloom, No Sky July and Fogust.

     Our native Monterey Pine survives by capturing the fog. Many of our other drought tolerant and Mediterranean climate flora get the only moisture they need from the atmosphere.

     The fog is a creation of the ocean temperature and the heat of the arid climate on the eastern side of our Santa Lucia coastal mountain range. In essence the heat of Paso Robles and the east side "draws" or "sucks" the cooler air through the mountain passes and canyons and a by product is our blessed flog.

      Rain is rare before October and rain season ends in March so every ounce of fog, marine haze, mist or humidity is a source of gratitude. 

       Last week ash from the Soberness fire North of Big Sur

some 45 minutes to an hour north created enough ash that it collected on surfaces here in Cambria. The last few days the wind direction has kept the ash away and the air has been cleaner.

     This is a portion of the burn area of the Soberness fire that has burned 79 thousand acres and destroyed 57 homes and structures. The top end of the blaze is toward Carmel Valley. It has forced the closure of the legendary Pacific Coast Highway, just north of the top of the frame.  It is now 60% contained.

     So thanks for your concerns. Keep the brave fire fighters in your thoughts and prayers. Many of the crews are hand fighting in rugged terrain, along mountain sides and in bone dry forests and scrub woodland.  

    
      See you down the trail.

    

THE BRIDGE & THE WRITERS BLOCK

WRITERS BLOCK

    It was chilling, prompting a sense of foreboding.

    "Get 'em outta here!  Get 'em outta here!" commanded Donald Trump at a recent rally beset by protestors. Trump had been bragging that he would claim "40%" of Sanders voters when the clamor began.

     There are smarter and elder political analysts and journalists but I have not seen a more viscerally divisive presidential candidate since George Wallace, who's campaigns I covered and who I interviewed. It is odd to write this, but Wallace was eminently more qualified than Donald Trump. Wallace was a self admitted segregationist. He was a racist and a hate monger. Trump is worse. He has no policy positions, no electoral or government experience, is fueled by  ego, rides a wave of anger and appeals to the worst in America.

       An important message to the nation was sent by 450 of our top writers.You can link here to read their open letter to the American people. While I think Trump is a danger to the Republic in many ways he is also like the canary in the coal mine, a warning of sorts.

      American politics is broken and people are rightfully angry. Our wrath should be directed at the big money that has turned politicians into whores. We should be furious with the increasingly selfish nature of those who lobby and who have turned government into commerce. A loud mouth and insensitive sexist, racist, ego freak with no government experience and an appalling lack of familiarity with international complexity and who is a bully is not the way to change what infects us.

      Why do you think we have become a nation with so much fear, anger, selfishness and with a lack of a desire for common good? Why are people taking to Trump? 

      As you ponder and respond, take a moment to consider what some of our brightest have said. The warnings are becoming more numerous.

RAIN ROCKS

    Every time we drive the majestic Highway 1 we marvel at the engineering that produced the road with spectacular views including here in the Big Sur area.

    Highway cuts, switchbacks and  bridges--there are natural challenges to keeping traffic moving. The frame below is a recent overhead look at what locals call Rain Rocks. 

   This is an area that frequently was closed, due to slides of the mountain onto the narrow patch of the Pacific Coast Highway.

  You can see how the tunnel like structure is built into the mountain and shelters the road from boulders and rocks that  litter the roof.

   It is an amazing structure and engineering masterpiece that we watched be pieced together over the last 4 years. 

   The previous frames speak to the massive size of the structure. But in the frame below it dwarfs into just one more pass on an extraordinary road.

    See you down the trail.

A GOLDEN STORY AND A WILD STORY

DOWN MEMORY LANE

   This is an abandoned stretch of the famous Pacific Coast Highway-California Highway 1. It is an appropriate icon for this holiday season post. From the archive we remember the fascinating story of THE California gold mine. This was first posted in 2011.

THE EMPIRE

      The Empire Mine, outside Grass Valley, is the oldest, richest, hardrock gold mine in California.  This is where the miners started to work, the main shaft that led to more than 367 miles of underground passages.

      Today it is a state historic site and permits everyone

behind a gate, that separated world of the miner and the mine owners.

      The hard work of the mining was done primarily by Cornish miners.  Over the years 5,800,000 ounces of gold was extracted from the Empire.

       When the mine closed in 1956, the incline depth was more than 11,000 feet.  The hundreds of miles of underground shafts and caverns were fully electrified and pumps ran continuously to empty the water.  It was a massive operation and much of the equipment used in the extraordinary undertaking now basks in the California sun retired to the mine yard. It is a kind of "mechanical art."

Today, most of the mine is full of water.

There is a blacksmith shop, still in partial operation

What is also extraordinary is what sits away from the work of the mine

Down the path is the "cottage" and "club house" of William Bourn Jr. who inherited the Empire from his father in 1877.

He had schooled in England so his "cottage and club house" reflect English style.

There is a reflecting pool

A clubhouse was built for the pleasure of the Bourns and their guests, one of whom was Herbert Hoover.

The wing to the right is an indoor squash court.

There is also a bowling alley, guest rooms and a ballroom.

The walls and floor are California redwood. 

The billiard table remains, but has been covered.

each of the light fixtures is a hand crafted design of what is apparently squirrels.

The grounds also included a tennis court and a badminton and croquet green.

Apparently the miners were allowed beyond the gate and onto the green, once a year for a Miner's Picnic.

The state of California purchased the Empire surface property in 1975 for $1,250,000.  The park covers 800 acres including 750 acres of forest.

The mineral rights remain with the Newmont Mining Corporation who bought the mine from Bourn in 1929.

Some estimates claim that 80% of the gold from the Empire remain in the ground.

If you get to Grass Valley or environs, the Empire is a great visit.

WILD

    If you read Cheryl Strayed's book, WILD, you know the emotional ride you are in for when seeing the film. People are suggesting Oscar nomination for Reese Witherspoon in her portrayal of Ms. Strayed who seeks to put her troubled life back in order by undertaking the enormous challenge of hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. She is marvelous. So too is Laura Dern, as her beloved but all too soon late Mother.

   If you are inclined to weep, as several folks sitting by were, this is a film that may turn on the tears, but it also a journey, both in beautiful scenery and inwardly. It is quite a trip and quite an understanding.  People are right when they say this is an important film.

See you down the trail.