RIDING POWER

SEEING IS BELIEVING

    It's the look in their eyes or the tone of voice. When I talk with friends from elsewhere I can tell they just don't get surfing. 

    Maybe they are thinking of media "Hey Dude, gnarly man!" stereotypes, or they've never seen the extraordinary athleticism required.

    Tangling with 20 to 40 foot waves is serious business.

    An article in an Island paper detailed more than 120 serious spinal injures on Hawaiian surf beaches. Getting crushed in a wall of water like that pictured above can also kill you.

   The memorial near the famous Pipeline on Oahu's north shore pays tribute to those athletes killed there.

    Along with traditional surfers are boogie boarders, using flippers and a short board.  They too ride the wave and when successful, as seen below, flip up and over the roaring Pacific curl.

    On Oahu's North Shore we watched at the Banzai Pipeline, Sunset Beach and Waimea, three of the world's best surfing sites.
     I was surprised to see the scope and depth of the "surf culture" and joked about the traffic and jammed parking, "does anyone work up here?"

   At least some do, as professional surfers. Several "surf shacks" commercially owned homes housing professionals, sit along the Pipeline. 

    They compete, do product endorsement appearances and live only feet from some of the best surf in the world.

      A few of the pros are veteran champions.

  Followed by many young chargers

 During the winter on the north shore they are well observed

  Even watching can come with potential difficulty. The next two frames are a case in point.  I took the first shot at the end of the steps leading to the Pipeline. My friend Jim shot the second frame a day earlier when those rocks and stumps were being used by professionals shooting a competition. 

  The people above are unsuspecting of how quickly the beach can change.  The pros below will remember, and fishing for their gear.

Photo Courtesy of Jim Cahill

   So yea, it's exciting and the rides look thrilling, even appealing.  But this boomer knows his own limited abilities and respects the power of the sea.

    The best I can offer you are pictures, from a safe distance and my admiration for those who catch a wave.

   See you down the trail.

ONLY THE BEST

THE BANZAI PIPELINE

       The north shore of Oahu is one of the world's premiere athletic venues.  Only the best dare try it here.

  Before the sun was over the mountain, surfers were in the

 Pacific, looking for a ride before the "Backdoor Shoot-out" Championship, part of a 50th anniversary tribute to Duke Kahanamoku.  Kahanamoku is the Olympic champion swimmer who created modern surfing.

 As the sun finds the line, it turns the Pacific from gray to blue.

  Team surfing competition begins at 8 AM. The professionals tune up.

  On this day conditions are near perfect and the waves are 20 foot tall.

   The power of the ocean is thunderous. The danger is underscored by the deaths of 21 surfers and photographers at the Pipeline.

    In this sequence we see a shooter deploy for his spot in the big water to capture dramatic footage of the champion surfers inside the shoot or tunnel of water.

   Here he is cut loose where he will attempt to survive the swells as he watches the board artists take on the sea.

 As only the best ball players make it to the all star game, only the best surfers in the world have a chance to survive here.

 At the pipeline, the beach rumbles and explosions roar when some of these 20 foot walls collapse. 

    If you look closely in the frame below you will see a surfer emerge from the curl of the back wave. This perspective reveals how solitary and fragile these athletes are as they compete against a primal force of nature.

MELLOW ON THE BOARDS

   A few miles away in Kawelia Bay, inside the reef, the board work turns to yoga.

ALOHA EVENING

   See you down the trail.