In Those Fields...

  A sunbaked Californian thrills at the abundance of water and green in the Scottish Highlands,

     and is fascinated by the Gaelic to English translations. Scotland and, as you'll see in subsequent posts, Ireland are reprising their native language. 

   Wide stretches of the Highlands remind us of California, though more verdant.

       Visitors are impressed by the number of sheep. All of those woolens need an origin. 

       I was fascinated by the stone walls, ancient, enduring and usually without mortar. 

   If you ever find yourself in the North Sea bayside village of Helmsdale, make sure you get to the La Mirage on Dunrobin Street for arguably the freshest and maybe largest fish and chips anywhere. 

   Established in the 1970's with the help of and as a tribute to author Barbara Cartland it's earned acclaim for its food and kitschy decor. Notice the CHP mannequin in the hall.

  Or you can take away next door. The sign says it all.

   History abounds and begs photographs.

  History is powerfully told at Culloden, reminiscent of the US memorial at Gettysburg.

   It was here on Drumrossie Moor on April 16, 1746 that thousands died in the decisive battle of the Jacobite rebellion. It pitted clan against clan, Scot against Scot in the larger war between the royal houses of the Hanoverians and the Stuarts, fighting for control of the throne of England. 

   It is sacred ground, as is Gettysburg and people pass with respect. One cannot help but reflect on the awful cost of war.
   The Scottish National Trust operates an excellent museum and visitors center that does a masterful job of telling the history. It permits a visitor to follow the build up to the final battle, from both points of view. The dual track interpretation leads to a 360 degree theatre that puts the viewer in the middle of the battleground. As the film ends, one walks onto the field of conflict. 

   Nearby sheep and cattle graze and golfers play. Life passes history by and might forget altogether, were it not for memorials and museums.

   Cultural immersion of another sort in the north coast town of Wick Scotland.

  A glimpse into the making of that adult beverage that bears the nation's name. 

  An abundance of fresh highland water contributes to this brand. 

  This is a small and almost family like operation with a long history on this site. 

   The Scotch whiskey tour is not unlike those we've experienced at California wineries. 

   Slainte'!  The journey moves on.

  See you down the trail.

We Walked Into A Pub...part 1

    Did you hear the one about the tourist who walked into a pub.....

   Scots and Irish pubs are a world unto themselves

    They are a distinct and vibrant culture.

   Strolling through a foreign neighborhood, they are beacons where you know you will find a good story.

   Looking for a lunch of fish and chips we popped into Deacon Brodie's Tavern on the Royal Mile at Lawnmarket in Edinburgh...we dropped into history

   Robert Louis Stevenson is memorialized on the walls of Deacon Brodie's because in turn he memorialized the Deacon.

   William Brodie was a Deacon in a Guild of carpenters. He was an upstanding citizen, a member of the town council. But his nocturnal personality was something else. He was a drinker and gambler and had 5 children by two wives. He got into debt and resorted to burglary to pay off his gambling.
   He was eventually caught and tried. The case was notorious in that day and 40 thousand people turned out to watch him hung in October of 1788.  It is reported he was born and hung within sight of the tavern that now carries his name. 

   Robert Louis Stevenson was fascinated by the double life of Brodie. Stevenson's father owned furniture that had been made by Deacon Brodie.  Stevenson wrote a play with another writer  W.E. Henley, Deacon Brodie or The Double Life. It didn't do well. Stevenson remain fascinated and in 1866 published Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde inspired by the double life of Deacon Brodie.

       Slainte!

    There are more pubs ahead on this path.

    See you down the trail. 

Of Monsters

   We've learned "monster" is a relative term. There are monster homes...

   ...monster hunters....

...and monster golf courses, in this region of Scotland. 

   St. Andrews is a lovely village, with an important history

  Elements of the past remain, a Cathedral that played a major role,

   and a castle also steeped in legend.

   Then there is St. Andrews, the home of golf.

  The club house that is a kind of castle in its own right...

 and the old course that is dream of golfers around the world. As one of this foursome told me, when you get a chance to play St. Andrews, you play it, weather and all.

 Not far is a loch that has gained legendary status.

  It's 24 miles long, a mile wide and some 950 feet deep.

  They come from every nation on the globe to take a look and watch for Nessie.
   Locals don't call her a monster. Here she is a gentle creature who resides in imagination and legend amongst these mountains of Glen Mor.

  During our visit a team of researchers, looking for DNA samples were at work. They reported Loch Ness shows signs of eel life in some abundance. 

   Transiting the Scottish Highland one enjoys the villages
with their culinary and shopping offerings.

As you are never far from a pub, neither are you far from a castle.

   The approach revealed the "back yard"...

  and then we wound our way to the front door.

 Ballindalloch Castle has been in the McPherson-Grant families since 1546. Grants occupy it now and the old McPherson Coat of Arms is now a legacy. And you are correct, the motto does read Touch Not the Cat, Bot a Glove.

  I'm still not sure what that's all about. But I learned one of the doors leads to the enterprise that permits the present family to maintain this monster house.

  Their kitchen staff operates a tea room featuring fresh scones, with clotted cream and preserves, tea, coffee and other goodies.

   Revenue from the goodies, preserves and souvenir items offset the operating expenses of keeping up the old pile. 

   The family occupies private quarters, but most of the castle is open for tours. It's a favorite of Prince Charles who has visited here for years when he's in the neighborhood. The Royal's Scottish Highland retreat, Balmoral Castle, is not far. Photos of the royals visiting Ballindalloch fill hallways. 

   The gardens are extraordinary, especially the "rock garden."

   There is a sizable stand of historic trees, including a cousin of a redwood, a national pine.

      Great views from some of the turret rooms, but it gave me pause...

  Ballindalloch is a lovely place to visit, but not the home for me...

   I left lawn mowing behind when I moved to California from Indiana...Look at these expanses...

    and this is only front yard....speaking of monsters!

   More of the Highlands, and then the Orkney Islands, the Isle of Skye, Glasgow, then Dublin, Belfast, County Meath, Kerry, Dingle and more on the schedule. Lot to see and share of Scotland and Ireland. 

   See you down the trail.