OVER THE SEA TO SKYE

  A bridge takes you from the beauty of the Scottish Highlands over Loch Alsh to the almost fairy tale world of the Isle of Skye.

      The Portree waterfront bay on the Sound of Rassay is evidence of a special charm

   while the beauty of nature is irresistible.  Skye, the largest of the Inner Hebrides, is 52 miles long and between 5-15 miles wide. It embraces rivers and lochs (lakes) like Loch Leathan below.

    A magnificent stretch is the Totternish peninsula. A star in this area is The Old Man of Storr.

  The Old Man and the other pinnacles are the result of what is called landslip.

   The Vikings ruled the Isle of Skye for some 500 years until they were defeated by the Scots at the Battle of Largs in 1263.

  Portree, Port Righ in Scottish Gaelic, is Skye's capitol and largest town with around 5 thousand. 

    The name stems from a visit by King James V in 1540. Many Scots sailed from Port Righ/Portree to escape  poverty in the 1700's and again in the 1840's during the famine. 

  It has become a tourist destination and hosts music and film festivals. 

   Skye is a land of abundant water and beauty.

   The Mealt waterfall is near what is called Kilt Rock, because of its resemblance. On windy days, the flow never reaches the Sound of Rassay because it is blown away.

   Though my loving mate has asked that I desist in such thoughts and likewise the encouraging of my daughters to consider it, I could indeed consider this area of Scotland as a place to emigrate if the 2020 election were to go a particular way. Yes, it has abundant water, natural energy and beauty but the fiercely independent spirit, power to the people, intellect and progressive thought are appealing. Some deep place in the DNA just seems to resonate. 

   Coming up, the story behind the Highland Maiden and to a place where Agatha Christie could have lurked.

    See you down the trail.

    

WET AND PRISTINE

  Architecture and nature make enjoying the scenery and photography a natural response in the northwestern Scottish Highlands.  

  Sir John Square in Thurso, a gift from Sir Tollemache Sinclair in 1879.  The church is St. Peter's and St. Andrews. The first sermon was preached there in 1833.

  The idea of the moors thrilled me as a young reader or mystery fan. 

   They are places of natural beauty and power.

   Ullapool rests on the shores of Loch Broom that feeds from the Atlantic. 

   An inviting spot is the Seaforth.

  A gathering spot for locals and those of us just passing through. We enjoyed the Cullen Skink, a traditional soup made with smoked haddock and potatoes. There is plenty of fresh sea food and drink to wash it down. 

    Mussels, Salmon, Fish and Chips, lobster, crab, as well as haggis, steak pie, burgers, mushy peas, highland cheese and wee nibbles. 

  It is the time of year when the heather blooms and turns the  highlands into a quilt of color and texture.

  Ocean views, rivers, lochs, water falls and streams course the highlands. 

   The Highlands are an unspoiled expanse and wilderness. The abundance of fresh and sea water make it an ideal place for those who love the sea or to fish and hunt.

  The remote Altnaharra Hotel began as a 17th century drovers inn, a place for those who moved sheep. 200 years later it became a hunting and fishing lodge. In the 20th century it became a place where sportsman, travelers and foodies can find culinary hospitality in the highlands. 

 Sheep are still in the neighborhood as well.

  A few more miles along the misty shores and foggy glens and we prepare to go over the sea to Skye.

    See you down the trail.

In Those Fields...

  A sunbaked Californian thrills at the abundance of water and green in the Scottish Highlands,

     and is fascinated by the Gaelic to English translations. Scotland and, as you'll see in subsequent posts, Ireland are reprising their native language. 

   Wide stretches of the Highlands remind us of California, though more verdant.

       Visitors are impressed by the number of sheep. All of those woolens need an origin. 

       I was fascinated by the stone walls, ancient, enduring and usually without mortar. 

   If you ever find yourself in the North Sea bayside village of Helmsdale, make sure you get to the La Mirage on Dunrobin Street for arguably the freshest and maybe largest fish and chips anywhere. 

   Established in the 1970's with the help of and as a tribute to author Barbara Cartland it's earned acclaim for its food and kitschy decor. Notice the CHP mannequin in the hall.

  Or you can take away next door. The sign says it all.

   History abounds and begs photographs.

  History is powerfully told at Culloden, reminiscent of the US memorial at Gettysburg.

   It was here on Drumrossie Moor on April 16, 1746 that thousands died in the decisive battle of the Jacobite rebellion. It pitted clan against clan, Scot against Scot in the larger war between the royal houses of the Hanoverians and the Stuarts, fighting for control of the throne of England. 

   It is sacred ground, as is Gettysburg and people pass with respect. One cannot help but reflect on the awful cost of war.
   The Scottish National Trust operates an excellent museum and visitors center that does a masterful job of telling the history. It permits a visitor to follow the build up to the final battle, from both points of view. The dual track interpretation leads to a 360 degree theatre that puts the viewer in the middle of the battleground. As the film ends, one walks onto the field of conflict. 

   Nearby sheep and cattle graze and golfers play. Life passes history by and might forget altogether, were it not for memorials and museums.

   Cultural immersion of another sort in the north coast town of Wick Scotland.

  A glimpse into the making of that adult beverage that bears the nation's name. 

  An abundance of fresh highland water contributes to this brand. 

  This is a small and almost family like operation with a long history on this site. 

   The Scotch whiskey tour is not unlike those we've experienced at California wineries. 

   Slainte'!  The journey moves on.

  See you down the trail.