The Teaser

    Graham Greene spoke truth when he said, "There is always one moment in childhood when the door opens and let's the future in."
     That moment occurred when I read Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island. My imagination was ignited and a desire for travel was launched. 
     Stevenson was an ambassador of travel and early I took to heart what he wrote; "I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travels sake. The great affair is to move." 

     My life of journalism and documentary production allowed a decent bit of "moving," globe trotting and cultural immersion. 
   I was asked once to write a piece about the adjustment one must manage when returning from extensive travel. A meager truth I surfaced was this; the re-entry to normal also helps enshrine the intoxicating, psychoactive, or mind stretching affect of travel.

    As you have read we have been away for a while, celebrating a milestone in our marriage, connecting with ancestral roots. Ever the journalist and curious explorer we return with a couple thousand images and even more memories. 

    I want to share with you what we saw, did and felt.
   

   We were on country roads, navigating large cities, at historic sites, immersed in the local culture, in Scotland and Ireland. There was much to see and learn.

     There is history that makes ours seem youthful. Complexity, intellect, and human endeavor that is profound.

   Abundant beauty, nature and culture.

Always near is history that shaped humankind.

  We are fascinated by mysteries of ancient cultures, older than the great Pyramids, cosmic riddles.

Profound beauty, picturesque charm. 

Music and culture.

  Exploration and discovery. 

Food and other feasts of the senses. 

   Grandeur and majesty.  

   Politics, struggle, and the DNA of fighting for independence. 

  Whimsy, expression and stunning beauty.

  Intellect and impact. 

    And there are the people. Our exploration of Scottish history, genealogy, and nature was organized and moderated by research and experts.
    And so it was in Ireland, though our guides were friends, people we have hosted in California.
     We benefited wonderfully from the expertise of Irish friends who kindly shared the magic of their Republic. An endless gratitude to Kay and Willie,
  

 and to Kay and Jack. 

  So stay tuned. In the days to come there will be scenes, experiences, history, and the pastiche of travel and culture.

   I hope you will enjoy what you read and see, in a vicarious travel adventure.

   I'm tempted to say come along for a foreign adventure but I'm reminded of Stevenson's summation; "There are no foreign lands, it is the traveler only who is foreign."

   We have been the foreigner and now we seek to interpret and report.

   These are strange days on both sides of the Atlantic, a cultural metamorphosis is in the offing. 

    It is my humble suggestion we have reached these vexing times because we have become to tethered to small worlds, of small screens and small words and small ideas, and led by small people. 

    Greene said it well when he wrote in Burnt Out Case, "The more base a life is, the more we fear change."

     We have much to share. I hope you enjoy the ride that is to come. Let's move. 

     See you down the trail. 

   

Seeing Beyond Borders

      Yea, it's kind of like this. The last three weeks have been reorienting by their therapeutic withdrawal of US media. We haven't given up awareness of events, no indeed, but our orbit has been the extraordinary story of Britain's parliament, Brexit and all of the disintegrating fall out and nuances.

   Being in lands with civic and political history that long predate the story of the birth of the US puts a humbling perspective on our junior silliness. There is disorder here as well, it simply has longer and more complicated storylines.
   Brexit for example.

    63% of the Scots voted against it. Brexit seemed to spawn from the same swamp of simple mindedness and deception that a former crown colony is presently drowning in and choking on despite that most of its voters rejected the maniac who is driving down the property value and inhabitability of the White House. 

     Idiocy on this side of pond has a shorter fuse and a longer history.

     Take this lovely building for example. It is Stormont, the Parliament of Northern Ireland and it has been unused for some 3 years now because the politicians of Northern Ireland can not agree on enough critical issues to hold it open.
     If you are of a certain age you recall "The Troubles" with a heavy heart. Now Brexit comes along to make "still uneasy" more ominous.

   That fence atop the shrine to fallen heroes in the struggle against British domination of the top of the island is evidence of the division that still exists in Belfast and the remainder of Northern Ireland.
   Most of this beautiful island is of course the Republic of Ireland, a nation that won its independence in 1949. The Republic was an early member of the European Union. So, you see where this is leading.
   Brexit means the soft non border between Northern Ireland, part of the UK, and the Republic is in jeopardy. It is a maddening complication to a stupid reality that the English have been incapable of solving. In the North it is a shakiness and uncertain agent that is absolutely not needed. Making it worse, the English now are led by their own Bozo of the trumpian ilk of incompetence. 
    So while we have been out of the US Media lair, the seeming unraveling of intelligent government has filled our screens while in Scotland and Ireland. Both nations, despite their own greatness are like invited guests to a party where the host family goes mad and try to drag down the sky. 
     You in the States have probably paid only passing attention to the complexities of these matters because of course you are in the States where the imagination runs only to the border.
      We did catch a bit of the last Democrat debate. How embarrassing! Childish really. Silly. They are playing a dangerous game, dissembling each other, loosing respect and face while a bona fide nut job tans, and loafs and rants his way into the future, such as it is. 
      We have more to see and do. When we get back to our central California coastal village we'll take the time to share a wealth of image and impression and history.  
      In the meantime I leave you all with the message I left on the peace wall between Belfast neighborhoods, Peace. It's about the best thing humans should aim for.

         See you down the trail.

the view from the homeland

  Since our last visit, I've been looking at things differently, under a Scot's influence.

  This is being written on the Isle of Skye, the largest island in the inner Hebrides archipelago. The harbor is a dark midnite out the window of my room. A few lights shine well down the shore, fishing boats are moored below, behind an old stone seawall and a red navigation light flashes out in the channel.The television flashes the BBC news and the latest in the Brexit circus. The UK is adrift on their own sea of political madness. 

     In Edinburgh I was told 63% of the Scots voted against Brexit, preferring to stay with Europe. Opinion polls now say closer to 80% want to say.  And so this political storm has wonderfully put you know who completely out of mind. It is like magic-not just the Brexit business, but something about these climes, and latitudes.

      Sitting in the Elephant House, waiting for my tomato basil soup, smoked salmon and caper berries on oat crackers and a cup of green tea the magnetism of the place where JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter was as obvious as the non stop people's paparazzi who lined up angles dodging the busy Edinburgh traffic whizzing past 21 George IV Bridge to get their keepsake photo. As I wondered how many such photos existed on social media platforms a young lad in Potter robe and regalia broke through the sunny door with his family.

      There is something happening here and to your writer. 

  What you see above is the Scottish Motto. "No one harasses me with impunity."  

   Basically Scotland declared itself, and self rule, into existence in April of 1320 with words that have now taken up residence in such a way as to change my equilibrium.

      For we fight not for glory nor riches, nor honors but for Freedom alone, which no good man give except with his life.

    Those words in the Declaration of Arbroath put this nation on the path to be at the cutting edge of reform, resistance, independence, justice, and progressive social evolution since.

    There is new talk this week about Scottish independence. When I visited Holyrood, the Scottish Parliament last week I asked a security detail about the presence of Gaelic language in all government and public places-road signs, in schools, and the like. She said it was something that should be preserved, it set the nation apart. He said he hadn't learned it in school, but knew he would be learning it..

      It's a link to a strong past, that is deeper that I knew.

     Everyone seems to know about Stonehenge, or perhaps the Great Pyramids and they mystery they hold. Well, they are relative latecomers.  The stone rings and the standing stones, like the rings of Brogdar or the Standing Stones of Stenness, seen above, are even older. They are on the main island of the Orkney chain, northern islands of Scotland, between the North Sea and the Atlantic. And there is something more historic

    This is part of Skara Brae, on the Scottish Orkney Islands.

It is some 5000 years old, part of a Neolithic village that among other things demonstrated intelligent social organization, community and a peaceful way of life.

     As some one in the US often says, "Who knew?" Well, I did not and since immersing in this culture I have, as I said before, been looking at things differently.

     There will be more from the homeland and from Irish cousins who have magic and power of their own. 

      The old certainties, and fixed points of power are gone. But there is history, and in history is destiny. It is there we learn and that is the alchemy of change.

     See you down the trail.